Integrating the Brand's World into My Own Field Through By Request

—What does John Lobb mean to you, Mr. Watanabe?

WatanabeTo put it simply, it's a brand that has made shoe history. I appreciate shoes from Italy, England, and America equally, enjoying both looking at them and wearing them. At one point, I pondered what truly constitutes an authentic shoe.

Ultimately, I arrived at John Lobb. It's a brand with a serious, unpretentious integrity, though "simple and robust" doesn't quite capture it. For me, it represents the pinnacle.

—Had you worn John Lobb shoes before?

WatanabeI was interested, but I had never actually worn them. I imagine many people are in the same position. So today, I'm speaking on their behalf. When I decided to experience "BY REQUEST," I purchased my first pair of John Lobb shoes. I felt it was important to first savor the brand's inherent appeal as my initial step.

I wanted to first receive the straight pitch, so to speak, from the very top of the shoe world, rather than a curveball. I wanted to consider what to request only after reaching that stage, otherwise, I felt I couldn't truly express myself.

The first pair Mr. Watanabe purchased was a black "City II" cap-toe oxford. This style is considered the epitome of English footwear, meeting all dress code requirements. The last was changed from the original in 2007, with the second generation adopting the beautiful and elegant "7000" last. It features a stylish roundness that blends the brand's charm with the tradition of English shoemaking. It is both an entry-level model and one of the highest standards.

—After actually handling the "City II," did you form your ideas for "BY REQUEST"?

WatanabeI wanted to request a shoe that could also be worn in casual settings, so I chose the "Lopez" loafer as the base model. I decided to try patent leather for the material. I wanted to alter the impression of an authentic design through the material.

For me, patent leather is a material for occasions where you dress up and have fun, perhaps not quite for parties or the opera, but for going to glamorous places. I wondered how stylish I could make a casual loafer with it. It might seem unconventional to choose coated leather from the Hermes group, which uses the finest leathers from the best tanners, but I thought it would be more like me to embrace such a choice, understanding the craftsmanship and production background beyond just the leather. I felt that by first buying the straightforward "City II," I could then enjoy this more unconventional approach.

A patent "Lopez" might not be suitable for business wear with a suit, but it would be perfect for parties or clubs. And it could even be paired with streetwear. Rather than simply choosing it because "this color didn't exist before," I want to incorporate it into my life in a way that is purely unconventional.

—So, the idea is to bring John Lobb into your own sphere.

WatanabeGenerally, I think the appeal of wearing John Lobb lies in being able to appreciate the brand's world. While that's certainly one reason I desire them, I find it incredibly exciting to bring the brand's world into my own field, rather than stepping into theirs. As someone skilled in sneakers and American work boots, this presents a chance to truly engage with the brand. I want to share this experience and insight with many people.

WatanabeAt this point, I don't have a clear image of how the finished shoes will be worn. However, I see this as a form of respect for the project. If I already knew exactly where and how I would wear them, I feel ready-to-wear shoes would suffice.

How they can be dressed up or down will be a delightful discovery once they arrive and I try them on. While I wouldn't wear them for skating or cycling, I also wouldn't consider it nonsensical to wear them robustly on a rainy day. I believe I've created shoes that allow for such new discoveries, and I think John Lobb is the ultimate brand that truly delivers on this promise.

The basic process of BY REQUEST begins with selecting your desired model. Then, your foot size and width are measured. Mr. Watanabe chose the "Lopez" for this occasion. Understanding the leather's tendency to stretch with wear, fitting the laceless loafer perfectly is where the staff's expertise truly shines.

The "Lopez," characterized by the oval-shaped hole on the saddle, features a classic short nose. Its appeal lies in the meticulous moccasin stitching that highlights the beautiful last and the construction from a single piece of leather, eliminating any excess. Once the size is determined, you can also choose the sole. For this order, it was selected in the same style as the ready-made version.

Next, you select the upper material and color. A wide array of material samples are available to help visualize the possibilities. For this order, black patent was chosen. Despite the treatment, the leather's adaptability to the foot is characteristic of John Lobb. The combination, unprecedented for the "Lopez," sparks excitement and imagination.

—Did you make any discoveries while placing your order with the assistance of the staff?

WatanabeMy actual foot size was smaller than I expected. In the casual fashion world, we often consider the relationship between shoes and the overall balance of outfit, including pant width and length, so actual foot size sometimes takes a backseat.

However, setting aside my physique and fashion sense for a moment, when I focused on fitting my actual foot size, it initially felt a bit small in terms of proportion. But soon, looking in the mirror, I felt no dissonance.

It's my personal theory, but clothes that look good regardless of whether you wear them in S, M, or L sizes are proof of excellent pattern making. Conversely, clothes that change drastically in appearance with even a slight size difference often lack overall balance to begin with. The same applies to shoes; with John Lobb's fundamentally beautiful proportions, they look elegant in any size or width. That's why I decided to have them made in my actual size.

Another significant discovery was that these shoes suit anyone's feet. They are not just for supermodels or gentlemen in politics and business; they are genuinely good shoes for anyone. I believe this is a condition for remaining authentic, and I realized that this is how they have maintained their status by adapting to each era throughout their long history.

BY REQUEST allows you to infuse your personal preferences into ready-to-wear shoes, almost as if tracing the brand's long history in reverse, from its bespoke services for upper-class clients to the launch of ready-to-wear in 1981. This act itself can be considered the ultimate opportunity to fully appreciate the charm of John Lobb.

—You purchased the "City II" as your first pair and ordered the "Lopez" as your second. What's next?

WatanabeI used to have a strong aversion to monk strap shoes, to the point where if asked whether I liked them, I would say no. The reason was that I couldn't envision how to pair them with pants or outfits. However, after speaking with the staff and learning that the "William" is one of John Lobb's signature models and that John Lobb himself devised this design, I became genuinely interested for the first time.

While I feel it's more challenging than cap-toes or loafers, I want to find my own version of a man who can wear these shoes well. Starting with the versatile "City II," which can be worn in various settings, and then the "Lopez" from BY REQUEST that I can bring into my own sphere. For my third pair, I'd like to try the "William," a style I couldn't previously imagine, again through BY REQUEST. If I can achieve that, I feel I'll become even closer to John Lobb.

Masafumi WATANABE
After starting his career as a model, he studied abroad in the UK before becoming an independent designer. In 2004, he launched Bed JW Ford. In addition to his work as director, he has also collaborated with global brands such as Adidas Originals.