Fashion
April 8, 2015
Shoe Care Essentials: Guidance from Kunimoto Noritoshi, Manager of JOHN LOBB Marunouchi.
JOHN LOBB
A Secret Pleasure for Discerning Adults
JOHN LOBB Style: Shoe Care Essentials (Part 1)
JOHN LOBB, the esteemed maker of the finest men's shoes, boasts a rich heritage of over 150 years, underpinned by the meticulous craftsmanship of its artisans.JOHN LOBBTheir shoes are renowned for exceptional quality and an elegant, sophisticated style that elicits sighs of admiration from connoisseurs. Equally important to the brand, alongside shoemaking, is shoe care. To ensure your finest pairs can be enjoyed for longer and maintained in optimal condition, a curated selection of care items is now available on the online shopping site "rumors." Here, we revisit the art of shoe care with guidance from Mr. Noritoshi Kunimoto, manager of the JOHN LOBB Marunouchi store.
Text by OPENERSPhoto by Midzho TAKADA
Proper Care Allows Them to Be Worn for a Decade or More
—Are JOHN LOBB's shoe care products exclusively for JOHN LOBB shoes?
While they can certainly be used on shoes from other brands, it's best not to switch creams too frequently. Likely due to ingredient differences, using various creams can lead to uneven application.
It's similar to skincare; using different brands daily can irritate the skin. Shoe care is akin to skin maintenance – daily attention, and once a month, a thorough treatment like a spa session.
—Why is shoe care necessary?
Daily care involves simply removing dust, but once a month, use cream for a thorough treatment. Applying cream helps the leather adapt, becoming softer and improving comfort. It also enhances the appearance with a lustrous shine. The difference between cared-for and uncared-for shoes becomes increasingly apparent over time.
JOHN LOBB offers two types of creams: a water-based delicate cream and an emulsion-based colored cream, each serving a distinct purpose. The delicate cream provides hydration (moisturization) and also helps remove dirt. The other cream contains oils for nourishment, color for補色 (color replenishment), and wax for a lustrous finish on the leather.
Just like human skin, moisture and oil are crucial. Without cream, the leather dries out, leading to cracks, especially in areas under tension. While cracking is inevitable, neglect accelerates it. Proper care maintains the upper in excellent condition, allowing the shoes to be worn for a decade or even longer.
Brush off surface dust and finish with a dry cloth
—What does daily care entail?
Essentially, brush off surface dust and finish with a dry cloth. For shoes with decorative perforations, ensure dust is removed from within the holes. The welts are also prone to dust accumulation, so pay special attention there. We recommend using a small-headed welt brush.
There are no particular tricks, but brush gently and evenly across the entire surface.
Finish by buffing the entire shoe with a shining glove. Always insert a shoe tree when storing your shoes. Shoe trees serve to restore the shoe's shape and importantly, absorb moisture. After wearing, shoes absorb some sweat and moisture, altering their shape. JOHN LOBB leather has finely interwoven fibers, giving it a strong tendency to return to its original shape. If left as is, the moisture evaporates, and the leather 'remembers' the altered shape as it dries.
It is crucial to let them dry thoroughly before care
—Are there any specific points to be mindful of during daily care?
It depends on the situation. For instance, if it rains heavily, you might bring them to the store. Otherwise, the uppers and soles absorb moisture. First, wipe the entire shoe, then stuff the inside with newspaper and prop them up so the soles are elevated, allowing moisture to escape from below. Once completely dry, proceed with the monthly care routine.
Applying oil-based creams before they are fully dry can trap moisture, potentially leading to mold or lingering odors. Therefore, it is essential to ensure they are completely dry before proceeding with care.
JOHN LOBB
A Secret Pleasure for Discerning Adults
JOHN LOBB Style: Shoe Care Essentials (Part 2)
For creased areas, move your hand along the creases to work the cream in
—How should monthly care be performed?
Similar to daily care, start by brushing the entire shoe to remove dust. Then, apply the delicate cream. This serves to rehydrate the leather and also helps to remove some dirt. Wrap a lint-free cloth around your fingertip – a cut-off t-shirt or shirt fabric works well. Take a very thin layer of delicate cream onto your fingertip and gently work it into the entire shoe in circular motions.
For creased areas, move your hand along the creases to work the cream in. You don't need to apply a lot of cream. Just like human skin, the leather can only absorb so much; applying more doesn't mean it will penetrate further. Over-application can lead to buildup, which is wasteful and unnecessary for the leather. Use a very small amount. Spread the cream evenly over the entire shoe and let it sit for about 10 minutes. During this time, moisture will penetrate, and old cream or dirt will surface. After 10 minutes, use a different part of the cloth to buff the entire shoe.
It's best to use a cream that closely matches the leather's color
Wipe away the surfaced old cream and dirt. Buffing doesn't require vigorous scrubbing. Once you get the hang of it, the entire process, including the waiting time, should take less than 30 minutes.
Next, let's apply nourishing oils and color for replenishment. For "rumors," we offer black, dark brown, neutral, and burgundy. Neutral can be used universally, but as colors fade slightly over time, it's best to choose a cream that closely matches the leather's original color.
Similar to the delicate cream, take a small amount onto your fingertip and apply in circular motions all over. If needed, take a little more. You'll know when to add more when the application starts to feel less smooth. A match head's worth is usually sufficient. Apply this in several small amounts. For creases, work the cream along them.
Once the cream is evenly distributed, be sure to brush the shoes. No need for hard scrubbing. Use a firm bristle brush (hard brush) to brush the entire shoe lightly.
Buff until no color transfers to the cloth
This ensures the cream evenly reaches intricate areas like perforations and stitching. It also removes excess cream, making the final buffing easier. Additionally, apply a small amount of cream to a welt brush and brush the welts. As mentioned earlier, welts accumulate dust, making it difficult for cream to penetrate and prone to drying. After brushing, no waiting time is needed; use a different part of the cloth to buff the shoes.
The buffing method doesn't alter the final finish, but continue until no color transfers to the cloth. Residual cream prevents the leather from breathing and can transfer to your trousers. Buff thoroughly. If the shoes feel smooth to the touch, they are ready. If they feel sticky or slippery, it means there's still cream residue, so continue buffing. Excessive cream buildup can create an unnatural, coated sheen, altering the appearance, so be mindful of this.
JOHN LOBB
A Secret Pleasure for Discerning Adults
JOHN LOBB Style: Shoe Care Essentials (Part 3)
The more layers applied, the higher the shine, creating a mirror-like finish
—Is wax application necessary?
Wax application isn't strictly mandatory, but it does make shoes look more beautiful and elegant. While the shine can be applied overall, it's primarily focused on the toe and heel areas. Shining the front and back creates a balanced, attractive appearance. Wax applied to areas under tension during walking can flake off, making the toe and heel, which have internal structure, the ideal spots.
Apply wax at the end of your care routine, or quickly before heading out each day. Mastering the technique takes time, so practice is essential initially. Even we sometimes make mistakes (laughs).
For wax application, a smooth cotton shirt fabric that doesn't fray is recommended. When wrapping the cloth around your finger, ensure it's taut and wrinkle-free.
JOHN LOBBAdd a few drops of water to JOHN LOBB wax to emulsify it. Use a very small amount. Take the wax onto your finger and apply in circular motions. The goal is to create a smooth surface for light to reflect evenly, so it won't shine immediately. If it feels like there's excess wax, add a few more drops of water to emulsify.
If you make a mistake, remove all the wax first
As you continue to apply in circular motions, the shine will gradually increase. Then, add a few more drops of water to emulsify the wax, take a small amount onto your fingertip, and apply again in circular motions, layering it on. The more layers you apply, the higher the shine, creating a mirror-like finish.
Mistakes occur when the surface doesn't shine, or when newly applied wax scrapes off existing wax, causing it to flake. If you make a mistake, you must remove all the wax first.
While some use a remover containing alcohol, we prefer to meticulously remove it over time using delicate cream, just as we do for regular care. If it doesn't come off easily, tapping with a brush can break up the wax. After removing the wax, use delicate cream to fully expose the leather's surface, then start the process anew.
For shoes with a more casual design, a high shine might be appropriate, but over-polishing dress shoes can detract from their elegance.
However, as you become more adept with wax, you might find yourself wanting to achieve an even higher shine, so be cautious (laughs).
JOHN LOBB
A Secret Pleasure for Discerning Adults
JOHN LOBB Style: Shoe Care Essentials (Part 4)
Some customers enjoy cultivating their unique pair by using different colored creams
—How should I choose the color of the cream?
The cream names, such as "Dark Brown" and "Burgundy," essentially correspond toJOHN LOBB's leather color names. They are formulated accordingly, so consider the leather's hue when making your selection.
Brown creams may have subtle variations, such as a reddish undertone. However, you can broadly categorize them as "Dark Brown," "Medium," or "Light Brown." The cream won't drastically alter the color; for example, applying dark brown cream to light brown leather will slightly deepen the surface tone, changing the overall impression. Some customers enjoy creating nuance by intentionally using a cream color different from the shoe's color, cultivating their own unique pair.
Always use separate brushes for removing dust and applying cream
—Should brushes be used for different purposes?
For removing dust, applying cream, dusting suede shoes, or aligning the nap, we use a firm bristle brush (hard brush). For the finishing stage, we use a soft goat hair brush. While a hard brush is also acceptable, many prefer the feel of a soft goat hair brush. Either will yield the same result. Additionally, a shearling shining glove is recommended for finishing.
Containing natural oils, a quick buff before going out provides a beautiful shine. Its compact, rollable design makes it convenient for business trips or travel.
It is crucial to use separate brushes for removing dust and applying cream. Using the same brush would transfer both dust and cream onto the leather. It's also advisable to separate them by color. Broadly, separating them into black and brown is sufficient.
There's no need to distinguish between shades of brown. Neutral color can generally be used with a brown brush. However, for light-colored shoes like white or beige, residual brown cream on the brush could transfer, so it's best to have a dedicated brush for such colors.
—Thank you.
John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/
