The brand launched in 1997. "mastermind JAPAN," which has consistently focused on MADE IN JAPAN, has incorporated Japanese materials, traditional techniques, and the latest technology into real clothing and disseminated it to the world.

The collection activities were suspended in Spring/Summer 2013, marking the 15th anniversary of its establishment. It then restarted with the Autumn/Winter 2017 collection. In 2017, "MASTERMIND WORLD" was launched as a line for the global market simultaneously with the revival of mastermind JAPAN.

To commemorate the release of BE@RBRICK in collaboration with MEDICOM TOY, we interviewed designer Masaaki Homma about his current state of mind after the brand's hiatus and revival.

HommaI was looking forward to seeing new talent emerge, thinking, "Wow, a brand making such great clothes has appeared," or "There's a designer obsessed with these incredibly tedious details." Being competitive, I was waiting for a moment when a brand would emerge that did what I had done, making me think, "I can't lose, so we have to do it too," but such brands didn't really appear...

Seeing products advertised as luxury street, touching them in stores, and thinking, "Is this worth this price?" I can't really comment on pricing (laughs). If that's the case, I have to do it myself. However, by that point, everything had changed from when I first suspended the brand – media exposure, how things were released, everything. So, if I were to try again, I had to start from scratch. I began holding exhibitions in Paris again with the mindset that the old ways probably wouldn't work.

—mastermind JAPAN is iconic for the skull designs you create, but could you tell us why you wanted to do a collection that almost entirely avoids using the skull?

HommaActually, I was feeling quite cornered before the hiatus. Around mastermind JAPAN's 10th anniversary, I grew weary of meetings for collaborations and special orders always revolving around "money in the end." I never expected the brand to last 10 years, but we reached our 10th anniversary, and I felt it was a time to give back to customers and business partners. However, I realized this was the limit of what I could do in my current state of mind, so I decided to take a break at the 15-year mark.

HommaBut during the hiatus, every time I saw other brands doing things similar to ours, I gradually started to think, "My skull designs are actually cool, aren't they?" I realized I had to face the skull again from scratch and present it to the world. That said, I couldn't erase mastermind JAPAN's 15-year history, and if I were to revive it, customers would have even higher expectations, so I knew I had to create something that would satisfy them. In that sense, I felt I couldn't design again unless I truly loved this skull the most, so it took time.

—This was a decision born from your profound attachment to mastermind's skull, wasn't it?

HommaOriginally, I believed I shouldn't use the mark unless I could create a skull that I, myself, found cooler than anyone else's. I felt it was unacceptable to simply make clothes with skulls on them.

When applying for a trademark for the mastermind skull, I was told, "There's no way you can register such a common motif." So, at that point, I gathered all the over 90 types of skulls registered in Japan and told the patent attorney, "Please show me if any of these are even slightly similar. That way, I can confidently say this is mastermind's original skull," and after he reviewed them, we proceeded with the application. There were various rumors about the mastermind skull, but I was prepared for that.

—What was the reason for launching MASTERMIND WORLD separately at the same time as the revival?

HommaEven before the hiatus, many designs already used the MASTERMIND WORLD notation. Around the time of political diplomatic issues, I heard feedback from overseas customers saying things like, "I like mastermind, but it's difficult to wear with 'JAPAN' in the graphic at this particular time."

So, to figure out how fans could wear our clothes, I changed the graphics to almost exclusively "MASTERMIND WORLD." Therefore, for the revival, I wanted to alleviate that kind of stress. The idea was to make the internationally distributed products MASTERMIND WORLD and separate them from the domestic line. That's how it came about.

—You also mentioned luxury street; what are your thoughts on the current trend where art and fashion are becoming very close and are essential elements of street culture?

HommaI don't know if art is leaning towards fashion or fashion is leaning towards art, but I think it's fine if it leads to good things. However, if it's just "Let's do something because this is the trend," I question that. If an artist I want to work with appears, and our sensibilities align for something interesting, I think that's the essence of collaboration, so I would accept. But I don't feel the need to force it. I'm not particularly interested in art, or rather, I don't have strong attachments to anything.

—Indeed, while mastermind has a rock sensibility, it doesn't seem to be rooted in a specific subculture. What exists is your image, black, and the skull.

HommaThere's nothing specific. My staff will tell me, "This artist is wearing mastermind," and I might look at their work or listen to their music, but I don't actively seek it out.

—I assumed you liked grunge, though.

HommaDesigners of my generation have all gone through that; it's inseparable. That said, I don't think it's right to emphasize it too much, nor do I think it's appropriate for us to do what others have already done. I'll do it if the timing is right.

—mastermind items have traditionally been remixes of basic pieces in your unique style, elevated to another level through craftsmanship. Have there been any changes in the design direction since the revival?

HommaLooking back at the photos from the first collection, I haven't changed what I'm doing at all. My own taste in clothes hasn't changed one bit; the only thing that's changed is my body shape (laughs). However, I believe I've gradually leveled up by incorporating things I couldn't do back then, knowledge I've gained through experience, and lessons learned from failures.

I'm truly grateful to my customers. If there's something they wished I had done differently, I'll present an evolved version in the next season, and they'll buy it again. Normally, people wouldn't buy a similar item if they already own one, and I shouldn't take that for granted. But because I have such wonderful customers, I'm motivated to create even better things each time as a way of giving back.

—So, the mastermind essence remains intact.

HommaOf course, the sizing of the collections before the hiatus and after the revival is quite different. I believe I've introduced changes that those who look closely will notice. However, I think the silhouette and the elements that make it instantly recognizable as mastermind haven't changed. But ultimately, don't people's favorite things remain largely the same?

—Please tell us about "MASTERMIND TOKYO," your first flagship store in Japan, which opened in March 2018 at Tokyo Midtown Hibiya.

HommaTo be precise, this isn't a flagship store. Through a connection, I received an offer from TSI Holdings around the time of the hiatus to collaborate on something. When the brand was reviving, they proposed opening a store exclusively handling mastermind JAPAN and MASTERMIND WORLD products. We have similar arrangements in Macau and Hong Kong, and while each of the three stores has a different owner, to customers, they might appear to be directly managed stores.

—I see.

HommaTherefore, I haven't really interfered with the interior design of any of these stores. I do a final check, but if it looks acceptable, I let them proceed with their vision. Of course, if the entire store were pink, I might have offered an opinion (laughs). For "MASTERMIND TOKYO," they were considering placing a game machine in the center of the store, but I suggested a billiard table might be better, as it could also be used to display clothes.

—You're releasing a BE@RBRICK in collaboration with MEDICOM TOY again after quite some time.

HommaIt's been 15 years, since 2004.

—You've released many models. Which one is the most memorable for you?

HommaIt has to be the very first collaboration. The idea of "being able to make a BE@RBRICK" is such a dream, isn't it? It felt like finally being recognized. I believe that for many designers today, "working hard to one day create a BE@RBRICK with MEDICOM TOY" is a set goal. I was one of them.

—What led to the collaboration with Medicom Toy?

HommaMr. Akashi (Tatsuhiko Akashi, President and CEO of MEDICOM TOY) visited our exhibition. Being able to work with such a renowned company is a great motivator. At the time, I was just working hard without much thought, but looking back calmly, if it failed, it would have caused trouble for the other party. So now, I'm more apprehensive about collaborations. I worry, "What if this doesn't sell?" (laughs).

—The first MASTERMIND WORLD x BE@RBRICK released last December, "BE@RBRICK MASTERMIND WORLD 100% & 400%," features the kanji character for "prosperity" on the back.

HommaIt's a word I like. It's not about my own prosperity, but a positive wish that customers who choose this product will prosper even more. Fashion, in particular, can only exist in times of peace, so I use it because I find it to be a good word.

Total height approx. 70mm/280mm. Released December 2019, priced at ¥18,000 (excluding tax). Available at MEDICOM TOY PLUS, MASTERMIND TOKYO, and mastermind pv store.
*As this is a limited quantity item, sales will end once stock is depleted.

BE@RBRICK TM & (C) 2001-2020
MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.

—And the new mastermind JAPAN x BE@RBRICK scheduled for release in February this year is the first since the brand's revival, and the first in about six years. This WHITE CHROME Ver. is the first color variation, isn't it?

HommaI have a tendency to avoid things that others have already done, so the MEDICOM TOY staff always have to be very considerate of me (laughs). Previous mastermind JAPAN x BE@RBRICK releases were mostly matte, so I requested, "I'd like more of a glamorous sheen," and they applied a special coating. Since this is the first BE@RBRICK after the revival, I wanted to get some good energy (laughs).

Each total height approx. 70mm/280mm. Scheduled for release in February 2020 at 2G, priced at ¥18,000 (excluding tax).
*As this is a limited quantity release, please forgive us if it sells out.
*Due to the nature of the product, fine scratches and scuff marks may be present on the main body. Please understand this in advance.

Inquiries: 2G
TEL.03-6452-5003

BE@RBRICK TM & (C) 2001-2020
MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.

—Does the collaboration with MEDICOM TOY hold a special significance for you?

HommaLooking back, we've had discussions at various milestones, and they are the only collaboration partner with whom I've been able to work. I almost want to ask, "Are you sure I'm the right fit for you?" (laughs). So, I'm delighted to be working together again. The collaborations we've done in the past often ended up being displayed in the rooms of overseas artists, surprisingly. Since MASTERMIND WORLD is also sold internationally, I'm truly looking forward to future developments.

—I see many overseas fans posting photos of the collections on social media.

HommaThe biggest change between before the hiatus and after the revival is the speed of information dissemination, exemplified by the spread of social media. For instance, five years ago, news like "I heard they're making a comeback" would spread gradually. Now, it reaches the entire world in an instant.

Normally, taking a break from collections for nearly five years in the fashion world would be fatal. Many new select shops were emerging, and I wondered how it would be received overseas, but more people were delighted than we anticipated. Before the hiatus, we had about 25 overseas retail partners; after the revival, our first exhibition immediately brought in about 60 accounts. Of course, there are brands with 100 or 200 partners, but our price points are entirely different.

The fact that more than double the number of stores from before the hiatus wanted to carry our products upon hearing the news of our revival makes me feel it was perhaps a well-timed comeback. Conversely, it's also an era where brands are quickly eliminated if they don't sell, so it's a fine line. It's no longer like the old days where once your name was known, you could continue as a brand.

We have to give our all every season, or we'll be judged by global standards, and that pace is only accelerating. While some brands make a comeback through collaborations, others get branded with "Even collaborating with X didn't help?" and their brand ends. It truly feels like we've entered a frightening era.

However, on the other hand, I haven't been worrying about that too much lately. Even if people say, "This looks like it will sell well, it'll be fine," there's never 100% certainty. Even without confidence, if we get good results, we can be happy.

—Thank you for answering so many of the questions I wanted to ask. Lastly, as we enter 2020, what are your thoughts?

HommaJapan having the Tokyo Olympics as a neat milestone in 2020 feels like the world has given Japan a final chance. Because of that, I feel that if we don't truly push ourselves now, we will inevitably decline.

Conversely, it means this will be a year where we'll be scrutinized more intensely by the world than ever before. Therefore, both mastermind JAPAN and MASTERMIND WORLD will strive with all our might to maintain the motivation to create products that can meet those expectations.