What is the BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto × Suzume Uchida × S.H.I.P&crew BE@RBRICK Project? [Suzume Uchida × Mika Rogetsu Interview] | MEDICOM TOY
DESIGN / FEATURES
May 24, 2022

What is the BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto × Suzume Uchida × S.H.I.P&crew BE@RBRICK Project? [Suzume Uchida × Mika Rogetsu Interview] | MEDICOM TOY

MEDICOM TOY

BE@RBRICK BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto × Suzume Uchida × S.H.I.P&crew

The "BE@RBRICK BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto × Suzume Uchida × S.H.I.P&crew" project, which will not only release BE@RBRICK figures but also apparel, has garnered significant attention. We spoke with Suzume Uchida and Mika Rogetsu about the origins and production process of this highly anticipated project.

Text by SHINNO Kunihiko|Edit by TOMIYAMA Eizaburo

I've been waiting for this chance

BE@RBRICK BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto, which garnered attention when announced at "AKASHIC RECORDS 2021 ~The Phantom Parade~" last year, will be released in two designs titled "Until I Become the Me I Want to Be" and "The Us Within Me." Furthermore, apparel items will also be released as part of the Yohji Yamamoto 2022SS collection.
These items feature artwork by painter Suzume Uchida. "Until I Become the Me I Want to Be" was created for this collaboration with Mika Rogetsu (S.H.I.P&crew) as the model, while "The Us Within Me" is based on an original painting created for Yohji Yamamoto in 2019.
We interviewed Suzume Uchida and Mika Rogetsu about this noteworthy project that bridges fashion and art.
Suzume Uchida
An artist whose paintings, based on her own documentaries, depict a world where light and darkness coexist, revealing the raw human experience oscillating between ideals and reality.
Her collaborations with Yohji Yamamoto have been presented at Paris Fashion Week and released worldwide, with annual collaborations continuing since 2017. In 2020, apparel was released under Adidas Y-3. In 2022, she is scheduled to release BE@RBRICKs with Medicom Toy. She has exhibited extensively in galleries and at art fairs both domestically and internationally.
Mika Rogetsu (S.H.I.P&crew)
Born in California, USA. She gained prominence as an influencer during her student years and, in 2018, created original sweets using OREO for the "Share the OREO world!" event at Seibu Shibuya. In June 2020, she launched her own project, "S.H.I.P&crew." SHIP signifies a large passenger ship, and crew represents the people on board, embodying the aspiration to grow large like a ship with her collaborators. Previously, she has released BE@RBRICKs in collaboration with MEDICOM TOY for "ANREALAGE" and "9090."
—How did you two first meet? Please share your impressions of each other and what you find in common.
RogetsuI learned about Suzume-san through Yohji Yamamoto-san and visited her solo exhibition, which is how we met.
UchidaThat was about four or five years ago. My artwork was adopted for the Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME 2018SS collection, and Mika-san came to my solo exhibition after seeing the lookbook. At the time, she was still a student, but my first impression was that she was an incredibly stylish girl, unlike anyone else I could find in Tokyo.
RogetsuI had seen Suzume-san's paintings, so I couldn't quite imagine what kind of person she was until we met. But my first impression upon meeting her was that she was incredibly warm and considerate. That impression hasn't changed at all.
Also, when I read an article about Suzume-san, I realized I had faced similar struggles during a certain period, which made me feel a connection.
UchidaWe had our first proper conversation two years later, at the Paris Collection, when I was working with Yohji Yamamoto-san again and she happened to be in Paris for work as well. She had collaborated with Seibu Shibuya on creating sweets and was involved in various projects with other brands. She approached me about collaborating on T-shirts featuring a cat character called NEKOKO for Seibu Shibuya, and that was our first project together. It's been four years of witnessing her growth firsthand.
Working together on the Seibu Shibuya project gave me an opportunity to have my own characters seen, thanks to her. I felt I could achieve even bigger and more enjoyable things with her, as she is someone I can rely on.
She loved and wore Yohji Yamamoto's clothing, and our meeting was sparked by me creating artwork for him. So, I always wanted to work on something that involved both Mika-san and Yohji Yamamoto, and I had been waiting for the right opportunity.
—You've collaborated with Yohji Yamamoto multiple times. What was the initial request when you first provided your artwork?
UchidaDuring discussions for the Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME 2018SS collection, they were looking for an illustrator or painter who could realistically depict female faces with an actress-like quality, as an homage to the work of Saeko Tsujimura, an illustrator who had previously collaborated with Mr. Yohji.
While searching, they came across an oil painting I had done of a girl smoking a cigarette. They requested something similar, with a touch of Taisho-era actress style, and that's how my first piece came about. Mr. Yohji also saw my earlier works and decided to incorporate my ghost paintings, adding a new essence of "life and death" to that year's collection, as I was told.
—For your second collaboration, you were asked to "draw a monster," is that correct?
UchidaI believe it was partly because he had an image of ghosts associated with me. After a casual conversation, he mentioned that while women can be admired and desired, they can also be frightening. That's when he asked me to draw a female monster.
—That's an interesting story. When you paint, what kind of emotions do you imbue into your work?
UchidaI want to be a documentary artist. When I paint, I prioritize honesty. What truly moves people are genuine experiences and genuine emotions. I believe it's my mission to translate my real experiences of joy and hardship into art. Therefore, even when I depict various female figures, my feelings at that moment are directly reflected. Paintings cannot lie; each piece is a reflection of myself at that particular time. When I bravely shared my experience of overcoming anorexia during my university years, I connected with people who revealed they had similar experiences or had changed their behavior as a result.
—Mika-san, you served as a planning model for the 2018 Seibu Shibuya "Oreo" collaboration, which garnered significant attention. You've since undertaken various other collaborations. What were your thoughts leading up to the launch of S.H.I.P&crew in 2020?
RogetsuFor the Seibu Shibuya event, I reached out to and collaborated with people around me to develop apparel and food items.
Personally, I find it more rewarding and stimulating to involve others in projects rather than working alone. Before launching S.H.I.P&crew, I made an effort to meet many people.
It consumed a considerable amount of time and energy, but I believe that time has proven valuable now.
—Could you tell us about the process leading up to the start of this BE@RBRICK BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto × Suzume Uchida × S.H.I.P&crew project?
RogetsuI first encountered Yohji Yamamoto when I was a teenager, and it was truly a "shock of black." I've worn his designs ever since, so perhaps people around me perceived me as synonymous with Yohji Yamamoto.
It still feels like a dream to be able to collaborate with Yohji Yamamoto, whom I admire so much. If I hadn't been wearing Yohji Yamamoto, I probably wouldn't have met Suzume-san. We had discussed collaborating on something for a while, so I was delighted to be able to work together in this way.
UchidaMika-san invited me to create a BE@RBRICK together, and I met with Mr. Akashi, the president of Medicom Toy. Since we met through Yohji Yamamoto, I thought a BE@RBRICK and Yohji Yamamoto collaboration would surely be a good fit. I saw this as the chance I had been waiting for, so the three of us went to discuss it with Yohji Yamamoto.
Someone who attended the meeting was very knowledgeable about Medicom's past products and stores, which surprised Mr. Akashi. Since Mr. Akashi handled all the specific details, my role was simply to convey my strong desire to do this project, explaining that Mika-san is this kind of person and that I met her thanks to Yohji Yamamoto.
—What were your impressions of President Akashi?
UchidaHe's a gentleman. He has an elegant aura and a unique presence. He leads the way and also values our feelings, which allowed me to focus solely on my painting. I truly rely on him.
RogetsuI was nervous when we first met, but as we talked, I came to see him as a very considerate person.
President Akashi is someone who can calmly assess situations and offer solutions and advice. I still remember the advice he gave me shortly after we met, and I feel I must live up to his expectations.
—What were your impressions of BE@RBRICK before this project?
RogetsuMy mother collected several BE@RBRICKs. At the time, I wasn't in Tokyo, but I wondered where these figures, known worldwide, originated from. Toys that are loved by both children and adults are fascinating, aren't they?
UchidaI tend to be out of touch with trends, but I was aware of BE@RBRICK because I saw them everywhere, on the streets and on TV. I saw them as something playful and artistic, like a delightful explosion from a toy box.
—Please tell us about the themes behind the creation.
RogetsuThe two themes are "Until I Become the Me I Want to Be" and "The Us Within Me." The paintings for this project were provided by Suzume-san, and my self-portrait was newly created for this collaboration.
Suzume-san dedicated considerable time to its completion. I believe the BE@RBRICK conveys an expression that only Suzume-san could create, resulting in a piece that is not just cool but also deeply moving.
UchidaI submitted several drafts, but I wanted to create something born from my connection with Yohji Yamamoto. Therefore, I focused on the painting of a woman smoking, which was the initial reason for my involvement, and decided to depict Mika-san smoking.
Women smoking appear frequently in my work. For me, it symbolizes a girl's transition into adulthood while embracing both purity and impurity. At the time, Mika-san actually smoked, and I had witnessed her growth firsthand. I felt this painting would be a perfect fit for the project and for Mika-san, so I created "Until I Become the Me I Want to Be."
The other piece, "The Us Within Me," with its multitude of faces, was originally created at Mr. Yohji's request to "draw a monster," as mentioned earlier. Initially, I was drawing female figures akin to yokai from Japanese folklore, but ultimately, I wanted to present the kind of monster I envisioned, which led to this painting.
In the original artwork, many faces were arranged together. However, at Mr. Yohji's request, only one face was printed on the clothing. I found the fear of having too many faces, where one's true feelings become unclear, to be compelling. Therefore, I also sold the original painting as a giclée print at an event.
BE@RBRICK is a three-dimensional object, and the head and stomach areas are rounded. I thought it would be interesting if the faces were distorted when printed on these curves. Also, when human faces are printed on clothing, especially on silk shirts, they appear to ripple like a soul when fluttering in the wind. Knowing this effect, I felt it would be more interesting to have multiple faces printed on a three-dimensional object.
—Both "Until I Become the Me I Want to Be" and "The Us Within Me" are, as you mentioned, documentary-style works.
UchidaYes. Since we collaborated on the NEKOKO T-shirt, Mika-san and I have been able to have deep conversations about our life experiences. Since I depicted Mika-san, who is both a trusted colleague and a friend, I felt it would be meaningful to include words conveying my feelings, not just the image. She came up with the English phrase "I wanna be who I wanna be."
When Yohji Yamamoto-san incorporated "The Us Within Me" into clothing for the 20SS collection, he wrote the text, "Even if you go mad, you're still alive" and "You'll die soon anyway." For this BE@RBRICK, we decided that printing in Japanese would be cooler for people worldwide. So, I translated it as "なりたい私になれるまで" (Until I Become the Me I Want to Be). However, I really love the words Mika-san came up with, so I titled the original painting "I wanna be who I wanna be" and wrote it on the back of the canvas with a permanent marker.
—Were there any particularly challenging or memorable aspects during the production process?
UchidaSince it was our first time, it was more challenging than I had imagined. We were meticulous about every detail, such as wanting Mika-san's face to be slightly larger or adjusting the position of the smoke. We experimented with various color palettes and had numerous discussions about the packaging. It took about a year to reach the final product.
Regarding the texture, initially, Mika-san's design was produced with a glossy finish. I thought a shiny finish would be appropriate since the original is an oil painting, but after seeing the sample, we decided a matte finish would be better and requested a change. Despite the limited time, we were determined to create something we were truly satisfied with, involving considerable back-and-forth. As a result, I am genuinely proud of the finished product.
—The completed BE@RBRICKs were first unveiled at "MEDICOM TOY PRESENTS AKASHIC RECORDS 2021 ~The Phantom Parade~" last year. How was the reception?
RogetsuI felt a unique overall atmosphere among the various participating artists. Many of my friends and acquaintances took photos of our collaboration BE@RBRICKs and expressed their admiration.
UchidaEven though it was a pre-lottery event due to the pandemic, I was grateful that people attended and posted photos and comments on social media. Many friends also told me, "I saw it, it's amazing!" which made me very happy.
—Has your impression of each other changed through this collaboration?
RogetsuAlthough we each have our roles, Suzume-san provided significant advice and support this time. It resulted in excellent teamwork.
We were able to communicate our thoughts more openly, in a good way, and I felt our bond deepened, which made me happy.
UchidaFirstly, I feel incredibly fortunate that we were able to create two distinct pieces. One is modeled after her, and the other is my self-portrait. Mika-san is very protective of artists and creates an environment where we can pursue our creative visions. Just as her project name S.H.I.P&crew suggests, she steers the ship forward like a captain.
Since this is a collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto, we also produced apparel, and Mika-san took the lead on that aspect.
—Would you like to create BE@RBRICKs again, Suzume-san?
UchidaIf I have the chance, I absolutely would. I'd love to create unique, hand-painted pieces myself. And if I could collaborate with Mika-san again, perhaps we could use her tattoos as motifs and scatter them around; I have many ideas like that.
—Finally, what do you both value most in your creative endeavors, and what do you hope for the future of the art and fashion scenes?
UchidaWhen I'm painting, I'm alone, so it can be isolating. It's like being in an empty field shouting, "Look at this painting I made!" but no one is there to see it. In that regard, fashion and this BE@RBRICK project are incredibly valuable opportunities. Having trusted and beloved companions gives me the strength to overcome difficulties and the motivation to work harder for them. I was delighted to feel that anew from both Mika-san and Mr. Akashi.
I want to create authentic works that transcend time through my paintings, and I aim to continue creating in a way that questions myself and others about what truly constitutes authenticity.
RogetsuI believe both art and fashion are pure forms of expression. While this might also apply to the art scene, I've recently observed a trend in fashion where originality seems to be lacking, with a tendency towards "this style" or sampling. Both art and fashion should convey "meaningful messages" to the world.
I plan to launch apparel under S.H.I.P&crew in the future, and I would be delighted if I could convey what I genuinely wish to express through clothing.
BE@RBRICK BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto x Suzume Uchida x S.H.I.P&crew
Release Date|Scheduled for release in June 2022
Purchase Method|Available at Medicom Toy direct stores and online stores, Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME, and select domestic stores and the online boutique "THE SHOP YOHJI YAMAMOTO" (apparel only available at physical stores).
BE@RBRICK BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto x Suzume Uchida x S.H.I.P&crew Until I Become the Me I Want to Be 100% & 400% / 1000%
Size|Approx. 70mm / 280mm / 700mm in height for each
Price|[100% & 400%] ¥22,000 (incl. tax) / [1000%] ¥96,800 (incl. tax)
※As these are limited edition items, sales will end once stock is depleted.
※The photos are of a sample under supervision. The actual product may differ slightly.
BE@RBRICK TM & ©️ 2001-2022 MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.
BE@RBRICK BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto x Suzume Uchida x S.H.I.P &crew The Us Within Me 100% & 400% / 1000%
Size|Approx. 70mm / 280mm / 700mm in height for each

Price|[100% & 400%] ¥22,000 (incl. tax) / [1000%] ¥96,800 (incl. tax)
※As these are limited edition items, sales will end once stock is depleted.
※The photos are of a sample under supervision. The actual product may differ slightly.
BE@RBRICK TM & ©️ 2001-2022 MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.
HORSESHOE COIN PURSE
Price|¥44,000 (incl. tax)
HANDKERCHIEF.1
Price|¥4,400 (incl. tax)
HANDKERCHIEF.2
Price|¥4,400 (incl. tax)
T-SHIRT.1 (Women's / Men's)
Size|size:2, 3
Price|¥19,800 (incl. tax)
T-SHIRT.2 (Women's / Men's)
Size|size:2, 3
Price|¥17,600 (incl. tax)
T-SHIRT.3 (Women's / Men's)
Size|size:2, 3
Price|¥17,600 (incl. tax)
PATCH T-SHIRT
Size|size:3
Price|¥17,600 (incl. tax)
PT SHIRT(HS)
Size|size:2, 3, 4
Price|¥74,800 (incl. tax)
UCHIDA PT SHIRT(HS)
Size|size:2, 3, 4
Price|¥110,000 (incl. tax)
HOODIE
Size|size:2, 3
Price|¥35,200 (incl. tax)
※All sizes are based on BLACK Scandal Yohji Yamamoto's standard sizing.
※As these are limited edition items, sales will end once stock is depleted.
BE@RBRICK TM & ©️ 2001-2022 MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.
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